A summary of the Lycian way
The Lycian Way stretches approximately 500 kilometers along the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. Its starting point in the east is on the Geyikbayiri ridge located in the Antaliya region, and in the west it ends near the resort village of Oludeniz, not far from the resort town of Fethiye. This trek is considered one of the most beautiful and challenging in the world. This is due not only to its length but primarily because the trail features complex terrain with cliffs that reach an elevation of 2,300 meters at its highest point. There are also flatter sections, but in many cases, they are strewn with rocks, stones, and vegetation that make walking somewhat difficult.
Along the trail, where there are villages or towns, you can find accommodations in local guesthouses or set up a tent on the outskirts of the settlement. In most cases, you can find cool, good drinking water, but there are instances where certain maps indicate a water source, only to later find out that the water source is dry, blocked, or has disappeared. The locals are friendly and hospitable, and almost always, for a modest fee, they will serve a warm and hearty meal. But it's important to remember that the tourist season starts only in May and ends in September and when it's off season many of the guest houses and the villages in general are deserted.
After the first five days, during which I suffered from a heel spur and the Canadian experienced pain in her hip joint (we are, after all two old ladies), we decided to travel from point to point using the Dolmus service — minibuses or small buses that are the most accessible and affordable means of public transportation in Turkey. Then, we would hike the section of the Lycian Way close to our temporary accommodation without the 13 kg backpack. In some places, we found an AirBnB apartment, in others we found guesthouses, and in several cases, we found campsites where we pitched our tent and, for a fee, used the showers and restrooms.
Tekirova Beach:
Not far from the town of Tekirova, quite a few Russian tourists were making some noise, but the beach was clean, the sea was turquoise, and there was a fresh water shower. Suddenly, it started to rain.
When it stopped raining I made a little bonfire and we warmed ourselves, got dry and made some sweet, hot tea. Lovely!
Then, when the sun came out, we started really enjoying this beach and the beautiful tranquility it had to offer.
After a lovely night on Tekirova Beach, in the tent that had dried out by the evening , we set off for Chirali, A 12 kilometer brutal hike of cliffs. Up, down, up, down. And the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean followed us wherever we went.
And these are the views seen almost all the way—green Mediterranean vegetation between the blue skies and the sea.
In Cirali, we rested for three days. I had the honor of saving a thirsty turtle that could not get down from the sidewalk to the river water.
From Cirali, without any apologies or guilt, we boarded a Dolmus that took us to the city of Finike. We walked up the main street, retraced our steps, and immediately decided to continue traveling to the city of Demre. We stayed there for one night in an Airbnb apartment, and again, after a brief discussion, we decided to continue on to our next destination—the city of Kas.
Photos from our time in the resort town of Kas: a selfie in the Dolmus, a walk along the beach, shopping at the local market that only takes place once a week, and lunch on the hotel terrace overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
Most of the photos are courtesy of the Canadian.
On April 28, we traveled to the village of Gelmiş, located not far from the ruins of Patara, which are the most modern ruins I have ever seen in my life.
At the beginning of May, I said goodbye to my wonderful travel buddy Dawna, who was making her way back to Canada. I stayed at the charming Golden Pension, in the company of a Turkish couple —Yıldıray, the manager, and Anife, the cleaner and also the manager when the manager was not around. Yıldıray spoke tourist English, and Anife communicated in the international language of gestures and expressions, as well as Turkish. In hindsight, it turned out they were not a couple but just two employees managing and maintaining the small hotel. Suddenly, I was alone, in peace. Just the two of them taking care of me and attending to all my needs.
The tale of the traveling valise: When I left the country, I knew that during this journey, I would need my computer for documentation and work purposes. I also knew that carrying an additional kilogram and a half on my back for five hundred kilometers (well, 200, maybe just 100) was out of the question. This meant I needed to send the computer (and a few other items) on its way and meet it on the other side of the Lycian Way. In other words, here in the village of Gelmiş.
How do you do that? How do you send a suitcase from Tel Aviv to Gelmiş, Turkey, without accompaniment? So, regarding miracles, someone—one of my guardian angels—gently tapped my shoulder and reminded me that a friend of mine has a Turkish friend, and that the Turkish friend works in the Turkish tourism industry. I called my Israeli friend, and she connected me with the Turkish friend, and I explained the situation regarding the computer and the suitcase.
The friend of the friend mobilized the entire Turkish tourism industry until she found a moving company that agreed to take my suitcase (without accompaniment) to a man who works for the company of a friend of a friend of my friend, and lives not far from the city of Kaş. It was agreed that this man, of whom I still have no idea who he is, would pick up the suitcase from the moving company’s office in Kaş and deliver it to me at the Golden Pension in Gelmiş on May 3, 2023, for a modest fee.
And so it was. Equipped with a name I couldn’t pronounce and a phone number, I arrived at the Golden Pension. Yıldıray, the manager, called the number, and after a few rings, the mysterious man answered. They talked a lot. I have no idea what about. At the end of the conversation, Yıldıray said, "It will cost you 500 lira." I replied, "Great," and half an hour later, I shook a rough hand of a nice gentleman, expressed my heartfelt gratitude, paid the requested amount, and received the suitcase, which contained my precious laptop, and thus I was redeemed.
Two local friends:
מנדלה בטבע:
טיול סביב פטרה:
דרך ליקיה:
Comments